Bethlehem Olivewood

I had several conversations with people about buying Olivewood Nativity sets from Bethlehem. They are a beautiful and unique souvenir to bring home from Israel and almost every bus tour that goes to Bethlehem stops at some shop that sells them. (You should be able to click on the pictures for a larger version).

On our last trip, while our group was upstairs getting the hard sell from the sales staff at one particular store, I slipped downstairs to get a few pictures of their production facility. I won’t tell you where this is, because I find this is one of my least favorite places to stop and shop. Prices are higher than the normaly inflated Bethlehem tour-bus-stop prices and I found the sales staff downright pushy.

Drying wood - important, because, if not dry, carved wood will later crack

Bethlehem has many garages and warehouses where people carve out nativity sets. The place I took these pictures is larger than most. The pictures aren’t the highest quality. It was a bit dark and a haze of wood dust hung in the air. I also didn’t want to get in right the workers faces, so I took the shots from a distance.

Each person seems to work on one specific figure at a time, often using an identical figure as a model.

I was first a little put off by the fact that this looked a little like a sweatshop. But the reality is that unemployment in Bethlehem is high and jobs are scarce. A job like this is steady work and a relatively safe and secure environment, even if that doesn’t look like what we’re used to here.

OSHA would probably not approve of this workstation.

My experience is that prices for Olivewood nativity sets are higher in the stores in Bethlehem than what you will find in the smaller stores in Jerusalem’s Old City or even some of the hotel gift shops. That has always seemed counterintuitive to me, but I suppose that the factors of both location and next door competition are a big factor.

If you plan to buy a set and price is the biggest concern, I suggest you buy in Jerusalem. You could save 40%. Be sure the set is actually carved by hand and is not simply wet Olivewood that has been formed in press – those figures will likely crack when they dry. Also, be aware that Olivewood nativity sets are now being shipped in from China and sold by some in Jerusalem shops at lower prices.

I don’t mind spending a little more for a set in Bethlehem because I think the people there need the support and you are less likely to be sold junk. My favorites store is Kando’s. It near Rachel’s Tomb. It was started by the cobbler who was brought the first Dead Sea Scroll by the Bedouin boy who found it (and asked him to make shoe laces out of the leather).

Kando used the money he got from being a middle man for the Scrolls to open a store. They still have the original Dead Sea Scroll jar that the Isaiah scroll was stored in right there in the store (worth the trip alone). The store is now run by his grandson Shibli, who is a delightful and friendly host. Yes, their prices are higher than Jerusalem, but I like supporting a Christian family who continues to exist under such hard circumstances.

Remember, don’t pay their asking price. Expect to pay about 75% of the price they first ask; perhaps less of you’re buying a very expensive set or multiple items. Don’t be put off by the look of the store on the outside. The staff is friendly, not especially pushy, and I found them basically honest about what they sell. Just don’t be surprised if you find a similar item in Jerusalem’s souk for less –consider this a “fair trade” purchase that will help a group of people who have had it very tough for several generations.

Guide Gila Yudkin has a nice page on the Scrolls and the Kando connection at this page:
http://www.itsgila.com/headlinerscrolls.htm

Ramparts Walk in Old City Jersualem

Heading North from the Jaffa Gate

Heading South from Jaffa Gate

How Not to Feed a Camel

I wanted to test posting a video. Let's see how well this works.

Wrapping Things Up

Time to wrap things up. Yes, everyone got home on time and with baggage. The connection at JFK was tight, but everyone made it.

I’ve had a few extra days, as have the Brittan’s. Big as this city is, I kept running into them. We walked the 500 year old walls together on Tuesday and had lunch. They were off to Athens-London-Seattle at 6am on Wednesday.

I spent today photographing the Jerusalem model in detail (about 300 pictures). I always seem to need an angle I don’t have on file, so I should be covered now.

I then headed over to an area known as the Jerusalem souk—the fresh market that many Jews shop in. I love the balance of everyday life of the living city to the Biblical treasures this city also houses.

If you don't know what this is, ask Karen Jennison.

One thing I do like about the old city is that there is an interesting looking person on just about every corner.

This guys just stands by the Jaffa Gate every day.

It took me the longest time to figure out from a distance this was not a hat, but his hair.

This girl couldn’t have been more than 21 years old (she looked younger from the front). She is obviously a private security guard for some Jewish touring or study group.

Tomorrow I have a midnight flight to the USA, so this will be my last post. Thanks for looking. Come with us next time. I’ll see you in church Sunday, but don’t expect me to be too awake.

A Free Day in the Old City to Wrap Things Up

Sadly, today is our last day. We had to meet at the Western Wall at Noon to tour a tunnel that ran along the 2000 year old foundations of the Western retaining wall Herod built in Jesus time. We had no tour guide, so I had to fill in what little I knew.

This part was a 2100 year old water channel cut in bedrock.

After this, everyone wandered off to shop, sightsee, eat, whatever.

At 6:15 we loaded on the bus and had a special dinner at a place called Pasha’s. By the way, if any of you see any pictures of me with a nargile pipe, let’s just assume the picture is digitally altered.

We went off to the airport of a late night flight. We had a few misty eyes as most of our folks said goodbye to Sam and the most unique place on earth.

I include this for my friend Todd Bolen, so he can see how his old friend Shabban's new shop is coming along.

Always nice to finish with a scenic shot....but...

Just when I thought the story was about to close, I got a phone call from Ariana, saying that baggage handlers were on strike and the plane might not be going anywhere. That sparked a few frantic phone calls, but it does look like the plane finally left, just a little late.

I hope that A: the luggage made the flight too; B: they made their connection at JFK. I’ll know soon.

Last Guided Day

Yes, I know I’m behind in the posts. We’ve been in transition mode.

Our last touring day had us passing Bethlehem again and heading into the mouth of a old, small volcano. Once again, Herod had built another fortress/palace in this spot between Masada and Jerusalem, just in case he needed to escape from angry Jews or if the Romans turned against him. Note the huge swimming pool in the foreground.
We wandered around the ruins inside the hill and walked through the underground tunnels that were later used by Jewish rebels in 135AD.

This next picture sure looks like nothing, but imagine this: On the left is the hill the Philistines are camped on. On the right (OK just behind the hill), is another hill the Israelites under Saul are camped on. In this valley is where Goliath would stride out and taunt the Israelites each day, trying to bring them down off there defensive hill.

And…this is where David wacked him.

We did a few more tunnels at a site that was mostly non-Jewish by the time they where built (lots of underground in this trip).

Finally, we stopped at a hill that once was the site of a great and important city-Lachish. It guarded the north-south road that bridged Africa to Asia and Europe. It was destroyed by the Assyrians, them 100 years later destroyed again by the Babylonians.

After this we did a couple of sites in the Old City, then everyone had some free time to get their feet wet in wandering its streets.

On the way back to the hotel, our driver Hasam (Sam) brought three of his four kids to meet us. He was the best, most friendly bus driver I have ever worked with and his kids are absolutely beautiful.

Our guide Mike and driver Hasam.